Understanding the major weaves of costume: Prunelle, Twill, Fresco

When choosing a suit fabric, the fineness of the wool is important… but the weave is just as important.

It is this that determines the fabric's breathability, its resistance, and its everyday behavior.

Here are three of the most commonly used weaves in tailoring.

1) The Prunelle: simplicity and strength

Prunelle is a very tight weave belonging to the plain weave family.

The threads intersect regularly and densely, creating a smooth, compact and very homogeneous surface.

Its main qualities:

• excellent durability
• wrinkles little
• fell sharply and was structured
• understated and elegant appearance

It is a fabric particularly suited to work and travel suits.

It can be found at Wolbe, notably in certain collections from the Vitale Barberis Canonico house.

2) Fresco / Twisted Wool: breathability and durability

Fresco is a very particular fabric, developed in England at the beginning of the 20th century.

It is characterized by: tightly twisted yarns and a relatively open weave

This construction produces a fabric:

• extremely breathable
• very resistant to creases
• which maintains an impeccable appearance even in high heat

It is one of the best fabrics for summer or travel suits.
We feature it in our Twisted Wool suit from the Heritage line or in the Tonik Wool suit from the Heritage line .

3) Twill: flexibility and depth

Twill, also called serge, is recognizable by its fine diagonals visible in the fabric.

This weaving process produces a fabric:

• more flexible
• slightly more draped
• with a more pronounced visual depth

Today, this is the most common type of weave used for costumes.

It offers an excellent balance between comfort, elegance and versatility.

In conclusion

Prunelle: smooth and compact surface, very resistant, ideal for a suit you wear regularly

Fresco: more airy texture, very breathable and wrinkle-free, perfect for summer.

Twill (twill): visible diagonals, soft and elegant fabric, very versatile.

One more little tip

For a suit worn very often, a structured and resistant fabric (like prunelle or fresco) is often more durable than an extremely fine wool (super 150 and others).