Article: Merino wool : properties and benefits
Merino wool : properties and benefits
Merino wool is a natural material with incredible performance.
But it is too often compared to classic wool and its drawbacks: “it itches, it keeps you warm, it’s thick”. It’s quite the opposite!! It’s ideal for summer and for travel.
Well known in outdoor sports for accompanying athletes in the mountains, we are now adopting it for the city.
Perfect for our timeless, technical wardrobe, it lets you go to the office, even by bike. Here are all the secrets of merino wool...
1) Merino wool: what is it?
a) the queen of sheep wool!
The Merino is a breed of sheep with abundant fleece, which produces extra fine wool , which is rather rare.
A fiber measures between 17 and 19 microns in thickness, while normal wool is 40 and a human hair is 65. It is therefore nothing like classic wool . It does not “itch” and does not keep you warm.
Born in Spain in the 17th century, the breed was later developed in Europe to compete with English cotton. Today, most of the farms are located below the equator. Australia accounts for 80% of global production, ahead of South Africa and New Zealand. Raised in the wild, the sheep develop a thick fleece that protects them from freezing nights and very hot days.
b) extreme finesse
The finer the merino wool you choose, the better the feeling of softness and warmth, and the performance !
The fineness of the wool also explains the designations super 100s or super 130s for fabrics. A super 100 fabric corresponds to a very fine wool - average diameter 18.75 microns -. A super 130s will be woven with a superfine wool - 17.25 microns -.
We use super 120 merino wool for our shirts and our sweaters – and super 130 for our pants
c) we have chosen the ZQ merino label
We mainly use superfine wools labeled ZQ Merino which come from New Zealand.
Because their basic rule seemed obvious to us: a happy sheep produces the best wool .
The sheep are raised freely on vast open pastures, typically over an acre (0.4 hectares) each. With so much space available and a hands-off approach, they are free to forage as they wish. Well-fed sheep are better able to cope with extreme weather conditions. And therefore, produce beautiful, high-performance wool. In this environment, animal health is a priority, and mulesing is prohibited.
Our partner, the Italian company Reda , a ZQ-certified breeder, ensures complete traceability! This merino wool is combed and woven in Italy in the Biella region.
It is no coincidence that Reda is the first Italian textile company to be certified B corp!
2) From merino wool to fabric: what steps?
a) first shearing, sorting and washing
Shearing is essential for the well-being of the sheep, and it is completely painless!
It is generally carried out once a year, either in spring or autumn, or before lambing.
Sorting is done immediately after
It allows you to remove soiled wool or select colors
Washing is crucial
it allows the wool to be rid of all organic, mineral or vegetable residues
wool can lose up to 50% of its weight during this stage!
b) carding or combing?
These are two different, and often complementary, stages of the process
Carding will allow the wool to be aerated and stretched, to orient the fibers in the same direction. This is a first “rough” step, but it can be definitive if you want a wool with a more “raw” feel.
Combing involves passing the wool through increasingly fine combs.
to homogenize the fibers (in length and thickness)
c) the result? threads and fabrics
the wool will then be spun.
Merino wool yarn will be much finer and softer than classic wool yarn
depending on the part to be mounted, this wire can then be
knitted , to make knitwear: sweaters , polo shirts
or woven to make fabrics: beautiful thick flannels , very fine shirts or stretchy jerseys
3) the 4 major advantages of merino wool?
1) it does not “itch” and creases very little
Stop preconceived ideas! Thanks to its extreme fineness, and unlike classic wool (> 40 microns), merino wool
does not “itch”
does not “sting”
does not keep warm
is very fluid and soft
Its natural elasticity allows it to stretch between 20 and 40%.
It will therefore crease much less than cotton, for example.
2) it absorbs moisture perfectly
Merino wool absorbs up to 30% of its weight , while still appearing dry.
That's 120 times more than polyester !
No feeling of moisture against the skin, so
3) it maintains a constantly optimal temperature
This is called thermoregulation !
and this is possible thanks to the physical structure of merino wool fiber
A microscopic section shows that it is covered with scales , like a hair. This structure traps air in multiple pockets, slows its circulation and creates an insulating film.
It keeps you cool in summer and warm in winter .
Polyester and cotton - with their completely threadlike structure - are no match. Always at the right temperature, you sweat less . Really ideal in summer! And since merino wool also dries 3 times faster than cotton, you never have the feeling of a shirt sticking to your skin.
4) it does not retain odors!
Lastly, merino wool demonstrates unparalleled performance in odor-resistance . It absorbs moisture without allowing smelly bacteria to proliferate. This is probably due to the lanolin it contains.
It retains 66% less odor than polyester and 28% less than cotton.
A study conducted by the University of Ghent in November 2014 shows that it performs better than each of its competitors in terms of non-absorption / evacuation of bacteria (analysis on T-shirts worn after a cycling session and 28 hours of rest). This is why a merino wool garment hardly smells of perspiration.
You may read here and there that you can wear a merino wool T-shirt or shirt for 1 week without washing it. It's indeed possible! And it saves the planet in terms of water consumed for washing.
4) What clothes can you imagine in merino wool then?
The revolutionary comfort of merino wool will therefore be ideal for men who feel cramped in their classic city wardrobe, who travel, or go to the office by bike!
Wolbe has made this its specialty. Designed like a sports locker room, the base layers (shirts, polo shirts, polo shirts) will absorb moisture and wick it away. Without leaving you with the feeling of the fabric sticking to your skin. Try us to see for yourself. You can use the code WELCOMEINTHETRIBE to get 10% off your first order.
Here are all the secrets of merino wool!
I hope they have convinced you of the powers of this natural material,
and that they made you want to discover more about our city pieces.
Written by yann behr
