How to choose the right costume?

The suit is a staple of the men's wardrobe. In the professional world or for ceremonies, it imposes a formal identity. But it doesn't have to be rigid! It can also be a chic and very pleasant companion for your meetings and travels, with or without a tie.

Its variations are endless. You can play with materials, colors, cuts, finishes...and its construction. Indeed, the latter, hidden by the fabric and lining, can vary greatly from one piece to another.

To choose wisely, you must first define your project precisely. For what occasion? What use? What lifespan?

Here are some keys to understanding how a costume is made and making the right decisions.

 

1) The choice of fabric

This is obviously the first criterion to consider. For aesthetic reasons, of course, but also for comfort.

You will consider its composition (natural or synthetic materials, blends, wool, merino wool, cotton, linen, etc.), its structure (woven, knitted, twill, jersey, etc.), its color, its manufacturer (known or unknown), and its weight. All of these elements determine the fabric's properties and therefore its advantages and disadvantages.

Because it is impossible to be exhaustive, here are our recommendations which take into account the triple DNA of the Wolbe brand: elegance / efficiency / responsibility

 

a) Merino wool.

Because it's soft, thermo-regulating, antibacterial, naturally stretchy, and crease-resistant. It also has an incredible "hand." Very tailoring. It's our first choice. Superfine, it can be assessed through the grades Super 100, 110, 120, 130 which express the fineness of the wool. The higher the index, the finer the wool (super 130 = 17.5 microns). Be careful, this is a guarantee of quality and comfort (softness and breathability). But the higher you go, the higher the price will be... and the more fragile it will be. Especially in terms of abrasion resistance.

Our references here are the Italian houses Carlo Barbera (for dry wools) and Drago (for flannels), whose super 130 merinos are truly magical.
Here is an example of our personalized Carlo Barbera suit .

 

b) The Merinos Flex.

Because it emphasizes the notion of stretch comfort. Typically, it's a 98.5% superfine merino yarn and 1.5% elastane yarn. It's the perfect compromise for combining the benefits of merino wool (seen above) with just the right amount of stretch for running after a taxi, pedaling, or straddling your bike.

Our references here are the Italian houses Reda, Zignone, Marzotto, and Vitale Barberis. Houses with historic expertise in wool, but which have evolved to reflect new urban rhythms.

 

c) Tonik wool.

Or "Fresco" wools in general. These are fabrics made from twisted yarns, which offer a very airy weave, making them breathable and wrinkle-resistant. They're a MUST for summer or any travel. Because they're extremely stable. The only drawback is a slightly dry feel. But how comfortable!

Our references here are Tonik wool from Dormeuil , Fresco and Fresco lite wool from Hardy Minnis (the only house that can claim this name since they are the inventor), and worsted wool from Huddersfield .
Here is an example of our custom Tonik Wool suit .

 

d) Combat wool ®.

This is our lovely discovery for improving abrasion resistance at the elbows or crotch. The result? 10 times more abrasion resistance compared to merino or classic wool. Thanks to Cordura®, used particularly in outdoor activities to protect the shoulders of hiking jackets from backpack abrasion. The composition combines 58% merino, 38% Cordura®, and 4% elastane. The perfect combination for combining the benefits of wool (thermoregulation, anti-odor, low wrinkle), strength, and stretch comfort. Of course, the "hand" will be less "seamless." But the care and comfort are exceptional.

Here is the example of our Ultim suit in combat wool®.

 

e) Flexo wool.

It's a cousin of Combat Wool®. It combines wool (55%), synthetic (41% polyester), and elastane (4%). But it's less durable. Comfort, price, and maintenance are key here.

Here is the example of our Flexo suit  in customization.

 

2) The choice of finishes

 

This will be the second criterion to consider. Because they will allow you to tailor your suit to the occasion you have chosen. Some finishes will be more eccentric and acceptable for a ceremony, for example. These will be primarily for aesthetic reasons. For the benefit of others, but also to highlight your figure.

Of course, a straight jacket with 2 or 3 buttons or a double-breasted jacket will bring a different style.

The same goes for pockets: patched onto the jacket, they'll give a casual, more sportswear look. With flaps, they'll be classic. Piped, they'll be more distinguished and modern. Their slant will also add a touch of classicism or whimsy (the more slanted, the less common).

The same goes for back vents: 2 (Italian) versus 1 (French). Or for lapels at the front of the jacket (open or pointed). Or finally for the finishing touches on trousers: one dart, two darts, ironing crease, belt loops or side adjustment tabs.

Little tip : there are two finishing touches that will anchor the suit jacket in the world of tailoring. The buttonhole on the sleeves should be functional. This means that the buttons can be undone manually, just like on a shirt. This is useful if you want to turn back the sleeves and reveal the lining. And the fake pocket high on the chest should be boat-shaped (barchetta in Italian).

 

Final recommendations now go beyond aesthetics. For the lining. Indeed, it can be a constraint in terms of perspiration, odors, freedom of movement, and folding.

The jacket is usually fully lined with a viscose lining. Choose a stretch lining if you have a stretchy outer fabric (Merino Flex, Flexo). It would be a shame to be stuck.

But there are also 2 possibilities to limit the lining in jackets:

a) The American facing:
It's a way to dress the jacket neatly, without lining in the back, apart from a "butterfly" at the top. The inner panels of the jacket are dressed with the outer fabric. This offers a beautiful harmony.

b) The jacket can also be only semi-lined:
A classic lining will be used for the two side panels. But the back will be left bare. Except, once again, for the two "butterflies" on the top.

These constructions are recommended for fabrics with breathable properties that you'll want to take advantage of. Merino wool or "fresco" wool, for example, or for summer. Be careful, the cost of this option will be higher because the workshop will redouble its efforts to ensure impeccable finishing on the back. Often, the lining helps hide some rough details.

 

3) The interfacing, an essential point!

 

The final, very important point is the construction of the jacket. Indeed, suit jackets are like mattresses: their "technology" is hidden and therefore invisible to the eye. Yet, this is what will guarantee part of the longevity of your piece.

To maintain the jacket's shape, accentuate its fit, and contour it to your body shape, intermediate layers can be placed between the outer fabric and the lining. This is called interfacing. It can be horsehair, cotton fleece, etc. These pieces vary in size and placement. They can be heat-sealed to the fabric or sewn by hand. You can't see it, but they help the fabric resist in more or less sensitive areas.

There are four types of interfacing. To describe them, let's start with the most technical and comprehensive. You'll then understand the difference between them and other types of interfacing.

A) Full canvas

The entire jacket is canvassed with a four-layer overlay (Figure A). These layers are sewn to the fabric by hand, using a very sophisticated, time-consuming, and expensive technique. The advantage is having a layer that will fit your body shape exactly. It is generally used for what is called "grande mesure" and for purists. Who could unpick their jacket tomorrow and change the interlining to replace it. And thus find a jacket almost like new. But this process adds more weight and consistency to the garment because the canvas is applied to the entire jacket.

In terms of use, it is not necessarily the best compromise, particularly in terms of comfort (heavier, warmer).

 

B) Half canvas

Here we are looking for a compromise between durability and price. We often have the top of the suit (torso, shoulders, lapels) with the interfacing sewn on. This is where the majority of the fit will be (which is important to show off your body) and it is also this part that will absorb the most heat and would be most likely to deteriorate if it were a heat seal. Conversely, the lower part of the jacket is heat-sealed (given that it is not really supposed to highlight the body as much as the torso). 

This is the recommended solution for customization. The new Ultim EVO suit will be built on this basis.

C) The breastplate

This is an interfacing focused on the upper chest, where the tension is greatest. However, the interfacing will generally be heat-sealed. It provides structure and support. But it will likely be less durable than the semi-interfacing option.

 

D) Zero gravity

There's no interfacing here. This is our preferred option for Gianni jackets and jersey jackets, which are stretchy and packable. This makes folding easier and reflects the fabric's breathable properties. Comfort and versatility are our top priority. The fabric's weight allows for a perfect drape.

 

Conclusion

 

So, now you know almost everything you need to make an informed choice. Remember, there's no such thing as a good suit! There's only one suit that perfectly matches the occasion you've chosen, your budget, or your specific purpose. Enjoy yourself now.